Garment-pattern-making guide.



H. J. KRAMER.

"GARMENT PATTERN MAKING GUIDE.

APPLICATION FILED AuG.9.1a15. RENEWED MAR. 14.1918.

Lzm fiwc Patented Sept. 10,191&

2 SHEETS-SHEET I.

Harry J. Kramer YWWJIW Afl'yg R5 co PNOI'O-LITHQ, WASMINnmN. n. c.

H. J. KRAMER. GARMENT PATTERN MAKING GUIDE.

APPLICATION FILED A JG.9, I915- RENEWED MAR. I4 I918.

PatentedSept.10,1918.

192789683 SHEET HE T I Harry J. Kramer byw kw Aw s 25 \1 the s'leeveislaid out by measurements based a hole part-of a sleevepatterndraft'edout;

illustrate/it as it w'ould -'bemused-in con- 'HARRY KRAMER} F d bo tMASQ FUQJTS- GABMENT- PATTERN MAKlNG GUIDE.

mate." i 1 V Specification of Letters Patent. Patented Sept;'1(), 1918.

Application filed August 5, 1515, Serial No 44,405. Renewed. March14,1918. Seria1.No..222,518.

- To all 05mm -Be it'known that I, HARRY J. KRAMER, a citizen of theUnited States,-residing at Boston, "county 'of'Sufi'olk, State ofMassachus'etts,-hzwe invented an Improvement in Garment-Pattern-MakingGuides, of which the following deseription, in connection with theaccompanying-drawing, is a specifica tionglike characters, on thedrawing representinglike-parts.

This invention has for its object to pro- Vide-anovel pattern-makingguide ortemplet-bywhieh garment patterns may be easily-and readily laidout. I ...My improved pattern-making guide is especially designed foruse in connection with those-systemsof drafting garment patternsin whichboth-the back and front shoulder lines and "thearmhole of the patternare laid -out and determined from angularmeasurements based on thecircumfer 'en-tial measure-of the armhole of the person for Whom thepattern is beingmade, and the shape of-"the neck lines is determined bythe neck measurements of :said person, and

on.the armhole measurez I .7 4

While 'the' invention :is 1 applicable for use in .connection with vanysuch system of draftingvpatterns, I-have chosen herein to nectionwith-themethod .of drafting garment.patterns disclosed in .my Patent No.1,098,736,. dated June 2, 1914..

-In the drawings, Figure .1 is a'diagram "a. garment pattern drafted outFig.2. 2 is :axview.v showingmy' improved pattermmaking. guidean a. 4

- v:1Ti-g;3 is a diagram view showing .the arm- ..xFigetshows how.myimprovedguide is used to"lay..out.a garment pattern; ,v Fig/Y5 shows.howmy. .improved guide is used to lay out a sleeve pattern... I .f

, In order togiveanunderstanding of my -invention,rit will benecessary'first to refer briefly .toI the system. of drafting. garment.patternswhi'ch is describedand claimed in my.saidabove-mentionedpatent.Fig. 1 shows in diagram a garment pattern. drafted in. accordancewithysaid system,

and thisrpattern'iis. made by first taking the measuremeIrtsDf thearmholev of; thejperson for Whomthe-garmeht is, to be made, andthenilayingeofllaom. the base .illixgllicle line 1 .42 two points3f'and4 apart .equalto \onequarter of the armhole measure, and. thenlayingoff another point 5. at a distance .fromfthe pointsdalso equalntoone-quarter ofthe' armhole measure. The

point Z.is-then laid often the base or guide lineata distancewfromthe-point 3 equal to two-thirds of-thearmhole measure.

The front shoulder-line 5.-.6 is drawn from .the. point. 5 .at. an angle015.3% and the rear shoulder line-7&8 is drawnfromthe point7-atanangleof17.9.. .The point-11 is then determinedv by measuring on the base line.from theipoint 3. a. distance ,equal to one-third of the armholemeasurement, and

from the poi'ntllthe line 1l.-12 isidrawn at h an angle of l3g-;from thebase line, and the line-13 is then drawn fromthepoint l at an angleof.27' from the baseline. .The, 0011- tour of the armhole is thendrawn;in by first drawing the arc.3 9 from. the point 7 ,as a

center, then-drawing the: arc .'312 fromthe point llas a.center,fldrawing the are 12-13 fromxthe' point :14 as, a center, andthen drawing a .se'mi-circle..134 from, the central point 15. of theline4+13. The point 10 on the shouldenline 5 .6 is determined, bydrawing a line from the point 4 atan angle 'of,5.6rto thebase line. Thepoint for the armhole noteh'lS is determinedbydrawing from the point.1.5a line at an angle of63 .tothe linear-13.. I V

.f822 is the backline of the pattern which is. secured. by 1 drawing;the, line 1920 through the point 5 at an angle of7 tothe 23 fromthepoint 211.t.0 ,determinethe point .23.. .Tl1e\;pointw6.-is. then:determined by measuring from the point 10 a distance equal U .to the.distance 9+8. and the bust i isdrawn'lthroughthe points 6 and23.

r The neck lines ofthapatternare secured by .draWi11g1aL1ine5l-59 thtoughthe poi (Sta en, angl t the ine 5.719 -l 1e1.;. 9 :fih e tangle.between the ,lineSi fir.9.,. dc8 r2a 399 thenlayi gfifisq .t is.lne.fiTQ ii-IheQpeint 6 a a stan' eflequal. t9 meant ,Qfialih llQkmeasure, thereby, determiningthe p oint 53. 1Erom.the.p .I1t.53,'theline ii-412%??? .1

at right angles to the line 51-59 and the oint 54 where this line meetsthe line 6-23 is the point where the neck curve begins. The point 55 isthen determined by laying off on the line 6-23 from the point 54 adistance equal to one-sixth of the neck measure and then a distance islaid OK on the line 51-59 from the point 6 equal to the distance between6 and 55, to determine the point 57. The line 55-56 is then drawnthrough the points 57-55 and the are 54-56 is struck from the point 55as a center and the are 56-58 is struck from the point 57 as a center.The are 5458 thus determined is the true curve for the neck line and theportion 52-58 of the curve is then transferred to the other neck sectionto produce the neck curve 48-49.

Fig. 3 shows the armhole end of a sleeve patterndrafted by a systembased on angular and circumferential measurements. This is done by firstdrawing a base line 31-32 and then drawing a line 33-34 from the baseline at an angle of 15 thereto. A distance 33-35 is then laid off onthis line 33-34 equal to one-quarter the armhole measure, and the line36-37 is drawn through the point 35 at an angle of 75 to line 38-43 isthen drawn at an angle of 63 to the base line 31-32 and of a lengthequal to the radius of the armhole arc 13-4, in Fig. 1. The line 43-44is then drawn from point 43 at an angle of 54 to the line 38-43 and theguide line 33-45 is drawn at right angles to the base line 31-32. Theare 38-44-45 is drawn from the point 43 as a center. The line 43-38 isthe center line of the armhole and corresponds to the line 16-17 in Fig.1, and the point 44 corresponds to the armhole notch 18 in Fig. 1. Thecurved line 45-4438-39 gives the under curve for the sleeve and thecurved line 96-37-39 gives the upper curve for the sleeve, the point 96being determined by the intersection of the curve 33, 37 with the curve45, 44. 1

My present invention aims to provide a novel pattern makin guide bywhich a pattern can be produce without making these various angular andcircumferential measurements as above set forth. A device embodying myinvention is shown in Fig. 2 and'consists of a plate 71 having the shapeof an armhole contour as outlined in Fig. 1.

This plate is provided on its edge with notches corresponding to thepositions of the lines necessary for producing the pat- Said plate isalso provided'witha, peripheral notch 201 which forms with the notch 200means for determining the direction of the cross back line 19-20, anaperture 150 at a position corresponding to that of the point 15 in thepattern which is thecenter of the arc 4-13, and the T shaped notch 101corresponding to the junction of the base line 1-2 and the center line16-17 of the diagram Fig. 1, the arms of the notch having directionscorresponding to the directions of the base line 1-2 and the line 16-17of the pattern.

The plate 71 is also formed at its upper edge with the points 90 and 100corresponding to the points 9 and 10 of the pattern, and it is formedwith the edge 52 at the same angle as the shoulder line 6-10 of thepattern, and with the edge 55 having the same angle as the shoulder line8-9 of the pattern, said plate being provided with the notch 54 in linewith the edge 55. The guide is also provided with a notch 102corresponding to the point 95 on the center line 16-17.

The guide is also provided-with an aperture 80 which is at a distancefrom the'aperture 150 equal to the radius of the are 33-41 on the sleevepattern and with the suitable peripheral indicating marks which are adistance apart equal to either the distance from the point.44 t o thepoint '36 orthe distance from the point 38 to the point 36 on the sleevepattern. In the present embodiment of the invention the distance betweenthe points 44 and 36 of the pattern happens to be the same as betweenthe notch 201 and the end 100 on the plate 71 so that I can use thisnotch and end 100 as such indicating marks. The guide is also providedwith indicating marks measuring the distance between the points 34 and39 on the sleeve pattern and in the particular construction hereinillustrated this distance happens to be the same as that between thenotches200 and 130 so that I can use these notches for such indicatingmarks.

I will also preferably form on the periphery ofthe plate 71 a measureequal to the radius of the are 33-41 and in the particular constructionshown this happens to be the distance between the notch 40 and the end100.

My improved pattern making guide is also formed with one curved slot 63terminating at one end in a notch or slot 64 and at the other end at thenotch 99 and one end in a notch or slot 66 and at the other end at thenotch 99. The slot 63 is designed for giving the outline of the neck forthe front part of the pattern and the slot 65 is for giving the neckoutline for the rear part of the pattern. The slot 63 is so cut that thetwo walls 66 and 67 thereof will give the correct outline for differentsizes for the front part of the neck, and similarly the slot 65 is soformed that the opposite walls 68 and 69 will give the outline forcorresponding sizes for the back of the neck.

In using the device for producing a garment pattern, a base line 1-2 isfirst drawn on the paper from which the pattern is to be cut, and thenthe guide is placed on the paper with the notches 30 and 40 on the baseline and the outline of the templet is drawn on the paper. The notches200, 130, 102, 180, 201, 54 and 101 are then marked on the paper byinserting a pencil point through the notches.

If it is desired to produce a pattern with the shoulder shortened at thesleeve end, a pin is inserted through the center hole 150 and the plateis turned about the pivot thus formed first in one direction and thenthe other and the lines a and b are drawn in. The guide is then shiftedalong the base line while maintaining the notches 30 and 40 in alinementwith the 'base line and a mark is made on the paper at the bottom of theguide in its new location. The guide is then removed from the paperleaving the outline on the paper shown in full lines Fig- 4, from whichall the outlines of the pat tern can be drawn, as indicated in dottedlines Fig. 4. For instance, by extending theline 520 formed by the edge52 of the guide, the shoulder line 6-10 can be produced, and. byextending the line 550 produced by the edge 55 through the notch mark540 pro-- duced by the notch 54, the shoulder line 8-9 will result. Thebust line 21-23 is: drawn through the two marks 1020 made by the lowerend of the plate in its two posi-- tions, and the mark 1800 roduced bythe notch 180 gives the point for the armhole notch. By drawing linesthrough the notch marks 2010 and 2000 formed by the notches 201 and 200the cross back line 20-19 will be produced and then by measuring offonehalf of the back measure on this cross back line 19-20 from thearmhole the point 19 is determined. The back line 8-22 is drawn. in atright angles to the cross back line 19-20 through the point 19, thusdetermining the point 8, as above described. The point 6 is thendetermined by measuring a distance from the point 10 equal to the length8-9, and the front line 6-23 is drawn from the point 6 through a point23 on the bust line that is determined by meas-- uring on said bust linefrom the back line 8-22 one-half of the bust measure of the person forwhom the pattern is being made. The center line 16-17 is drawn throughthe notch marks 1010 and 1020.

After the pattern has been drawn, as shown in Fig. 4, the guide is takenand placed first on the pattern, as shown in dotted lines Fig. 4, sothat the outside Walls of the notches 64 and 70 aline With the frontline 6-23 of the pattern and the notch 99 is in line with the shoulderline. The neck outline is then drawn by a pencil, using either the wall66 or the wall 67 of the slot 63 as the guide, depending on the size ofthe neck desired. The guide is then shifted into the other dotted lineposition Fig. 4 and placed so that the walls of the notches 70 and 66are in alinement with the back line 8-22 and the notch 99 is over theshoulder line. When the guide is thus positioned the outline for theback part of the neck is drawn by inserting a pencil in the slot 65 andguiding the pencil by either the wall 68 or wall 69, depending on thesize of the neck desired.

The mark 1300 produced by the notch 130 gives the point for the divisionbetween the back and the side gore if the pattern is made with a sidegore.

For laying out a sleeve, I proceed as shown in Fig. 5, that is, I firstlay off a base line 31-32 on the paper and then place the device so thatthe notches 102 and 180 touch the base line, as shown in Fig. 5, andoutline the peripheral portion between the notches 102 and 40. Thenotches 102 and 180 determine the points 38 and 44 of the pattern. Ithen lay off on the base line from the point 44 the proper distance asmeasured on the plate to determine the point 36. In this particulartemplet this is the distance between the notch 201 and the end 100 ofthe templet. The semi-circle 33-37-39-41 is then struck from the point36 as a center by placing a pin through either the aperture 150 or theaperture 80 and on the center point 36 and inserting a pencil pointthrough the other aperture and using the plate as a compass.

The point 39 is then determined by measuring from the point 41 adistance equal to the radius of the arc 33-41 and this may beaccomplished either by using the plate as a compass, as above described,or by using the measure laid off on the guide for this distance, whichin the illustrated device happens to be the distance between the notch40 and end 100. After the point 39 is determined, the line 38-39 isdrawn and the point 42 is located by laying ofl on the line 38-39 fromthe point 39 the proper distance :as' given by the measure provided onthe guide, which happens to be the distance between the notches 200 and130. The curve 39-42-38 is then drawn in, thus completin the armhole endof the sleeve pattern.

y pattern-making guide isprovided on its lower edge with the scale 165which is preferably laid off in degrees, and is also provided with acenter mark 176. The advantage of this is that the device can be used asa protractor and for a guide in producing the lines a and b at equaldistances from the center, and for drawing lines other than 1617 fromthe armhole on which to divide the pattern.

It will be noted that the line on the plate connecting the notches 40and 30 is perpendicular to the line connecting the notches 102 and 17 6.This construction hasthe advantage that the notches 40, 30, 176 and 102can be used for drawing lines at right angles to each other in draftinga pattern.

It may be understood that there will be a guide for each size ofarmhole, so that in laying out a pattern the guide corresponding to thecircumferential measure of the armhole of the pattern and to the classof garment to be produced will be used.

l/Vhile I have shown herein a particular guide made in accordance withmy invention yet I desire to state that my invention .may be embodied inguides of other shapes and with the various guiding notches andindicating marks differently arranged to correspond with differentclasses of garments.

I claim:

1. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a shapesuch that a portion of the exterior contour thereof corresponds inshapeand size tothat of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide havingdirection-determining means for determining the direction and positionofthose lines of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined bysaid portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part whichcross or extend from the armhole outline,

whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can be produced by simplyplacing the guide on a sheet of paper and tracing around said portion ofthe periphery of the guide, and

the direction and position of said lines relative to the armhole outlinecan be determined directly from the guide.

2. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a shapesuch that a portion of the exterior contour thereof corresponds in shapeand size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guide havingdirection-determining means for determining the direction of the base orguide line, cross back line, shoulder lines and center line of a patternof which the armhole outline as defined by said portion of theperipheral contour of the guide is a part, whereby the armhole outlineof said pattern can be produced simply by placing the guide on a pieceof paper and tracing around said portionof the periphery of the guideand the direction and position of said base or guide line, cross backline, shoulder lines and amass center line relative'to the armholeoutline can be determined directly fromtheguide.

3. A pattern-making guide for laying out garmentpatterns having afixedshape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds inshape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guidehaving shoulder-points-determining means for determining the positionand direction of the shoulder points of a pattern of which the armholeoutline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of theguide is a part, whereby the outline of the armhole of said pattern canbe produced simply by laying the guide on a sheet of vpaper and tracingaround said portion of the periphery of the guide and the position ofthe shoulder points relative to said armhole outline can be marked onthe paper directly from the guide.

4. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixedshape and a portion of the exterior-contour of which corresponds inshape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guidehaving shoulder'line determining means for determining the position anddirection of the shoulder lines of a pattern of which the armholeoutline as defined by saidportion of the peripheralcontour of the guideis a part, whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can .be producedsimply by laying the guideon a sheet of paper and tracing around saidportion of the periphery of the guide and the direction. and position ofthe shoulder lines of said pattern relative to the armhole outline canbe determined directly from the guide.

5. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixedshape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds inshape and size to that'of the complete armhole of a pattern, said guidehaving direction-determining means for determining the direction andposition. of the shoulder lines of a pattern of which the armholeoutline as defined by said portion of the peripheral contour of theguide is a part, whereby the armhole outline of said pattern can beproduced simply by laying the guide on a sheet of paper and tracingaround said portion of the periphery of the guide and the direction andposition of the shoulder lines relative to the armhole outline can bedetermined directly from the guide, said guide being provided with acurved slot havinga contouricorresponding to that of the completeneck-line of said pattern and shoulder-line determining means and alsohaving guiding means for determining the position and direction relativeto the neck line and shoulder line of. those lines of a pattern whichextend from the neck line.

6. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a shapesuch that a portion of the exterior contour thereof corresponds in shapeand size to that of the complete armhole of the pattern, said guidehaving direction-determining means for determining the direction of theshoulder lines of a pattern of which the armhole outline as defined bysaid portion of the peripheral contour of the guide is a part, wherebythe complete armhole outline of said pattern can be produced simply bylaying said guide on a sheet of paper and tracing around said portion ofthe periphery of the guide and the direction and position of theshoulder lines relative to the armhole outline can be determineddirectly from the guide while it is positioned on the paper, said guidebeing provided with a curved slot having a contour corresponding to thecomplete neck line of said pattern and having guiding means associatedwith said curved slot for determining the position and direction of theshoulder lines relative to the neck line.

7. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixedshape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds inshape and size to that of the complete armhole of the pattern, saidguidehaving apertures spaced apart a distance equal to the radius of theupper curve at the armhole end of the sleeve pattern, whereby saidapertures of the guide may be used to draw said curve.

8. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixedshape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds inshape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, wherebysaid armhole outline can be drawn by tracing around said portion of theperiphery of said guide, said guide being provided with indicating meansfor indicating the position on said armhole outline of certainconnecting points and also having indicating marks to indicate thecorresponding points on the armhole end of a sleeve pattern for saidgarment pattern.

9. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having a fixedshape and a portion of the exterior contour of which corresponds inshape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, the loweredge being provided with a protractor scale, said guide being alsoprovided with an aperture through which an implement may be inserted toform a pivot about which the guide may be swung in opposite directionsto provide for varying the length of the shoulders at the armhole endand determining the position relative to the armhole outline of the linefor dividing the pattern.

10. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having ageneral oval shape and presenting an exterior contour corresponding tothe shape of the armhole of the pattern whereby said armhole outline maybe drawn by tracing around the periphery of the guide, said guide beingprovided with a curved slot having a contour corresponding to that ofthe front neck line of the pattern and having positioning means forpositioning said guide properly relative to the front line and frontshoulder line of the pattern to produce the front neck line.

11. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having ageneral oval shape and presenting an exterior contour corresponding tothe shape of the armhole of the pattern whereby said armhole outline maybe drawn by tracing around the periphery of the guide, said guide beingprovided with a curved slot having a contour corresponding to that ofthe back neck line of the pattern and having guiding means forpositioning said guide properly relative to the back shoulder line andback line of the pattern to produce correctly the back neck line.

12. A pattern-making guide for laying out garment patterns having afixed shape and a portion of the exterior contour of which correspondsin shape and size to that of the complete armhole of a pattern, wherebysaid armhole outline can be drawn by tracing around the periphery of theguide, said templet being provided with one line extending from one sideto the other thereof, and a second line extending at right angles to thefirst-named line and terminating at the periphery of the guide.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification.

HARRY J. KRAMER.

Copies 01. this patent may be obtained for five cents each, byaddressing the Commissioner of lie-tents, Washington, D. G."

in Letters Patent No. 1278,6233.

Corrections It is hereby certified that in Letters Patent No. 1,278,683,granted September 10 1918, upon the application of Harry J. Kramer, ofBoston, Massachusetts, for an improvement in Garment-Pattern-MakingGuides, errors appear in the printed specification requiring correctionas follows: Page 4:, line 55, claim 2, after the word direction insertthe Words and position; page 5, line 98, claim 12, for the word templetread guide; and that the said Letters Patent should be read With thesecorrections therein that the same may conform to the record of the casein the Patent Office. I

Signed and sealed this 15th day of October, A. D., 1918.

R. F. WHITEHEAD,

Acting Commissioner of Patents.

[SEAL]

